Udaipur (through a local's eye)

Meet Doulat, a forty-seven year old father of two, born and raised in Udaipur, and full-time rickshaw driver. He was sent to pick us up early Saturday morning at the Udaipur train station after our 24-hour train ride from Haridwar, via Delhi. We came out of the train station to find a smiling man holding a sign that read, “CARRIE.”

We spotted him immediately and the three of us proceeded to his rickshaw. He somehow managed to get our backpacks wedged behind the back seat, so we could sit comfortably without them on our laps. He did most of the talking (with excellent English) on the way to our hotel, which we attributed it to our lack of sleep on the overnight train and it being only 7am. However, after hearing Doulat’s background and how much he loves his city, he finally confessed: he is a self-proclaimed chatterbox. “You know India runs on the Four C’s … chai, chapati, curry, and chatter,” he rattled off while navigating through the narrow streets of Udaipur.

About 10 minutes into our 20-minute ride from the train station, Doulat pulled over to the side of the road and said, “let’s have chai.” We went to get out of the rickshaw, but softly he said, “No, no, in India, you just have to wait and things will come to you.” And sure enough, the chaiwalla from the roadside stand came over with three cups of steaming hot marsala chai.  We drank, and of course, Doulat chatted about something, and enjoyed our chai. When we were finished we went to pick up the tab, but Doulat said no, we were guests in his city, and he paid the chaiwalla.

We arrived at our hotel and before we said goodbye to our new friend, he told us that he loves to give tours of his city, showing people the non-tourist spots to enjoy the beauty of the city. His genuine nature coupled with his laid back style, made him a perfect tour guide for us. So we booked a tour for Monday.

Monday at noon, we met Doulat in the lobby of the hotel, and while Pete and I motioned to walk out the door, Doulat again slowed us down and motioned for us to sit down to discuss our plan for the day. We explained that we wanted to see the city through a local’s eye and do a bit of shopping at the end. He explained many places we could go, many without tourists and some with just Indian tourists. We all agreed to keep the day somewhat open ended and not rush through the sights. First he took us to a look out spot to see almost all of Lake Pichola, where we could spot the Lake Palace, the City Palace, and the Monsoon Palace (three palaces for the royal family for three seasons – Summer, Winter, and Monsoon seasons).

View of Lake Pichola - Monsoon Palace is on top of the hill

We then had to go get Doulat’s favorite “energy drink” to keep us going for the day. We pulled over at this roadside stand and sipped on the pineapple and sweet lime juice, which was rather refreshing on a hot day. Doulat again insisted on paying.

Doulat (you can see him through the window), me, & our rickshaw at the energy drink stand

Next, we visited the memorial grounds for the royal family. This is where members of the royal family are cremated and memorials are built to honor them. (Their ashes and bones are put into the Ganges, so, different from Western cultures, their remains are not in the memorials).

Royal family memorials

We then went to the beautifully colored markets, made even more vibrant by the colors of the Rajasthani women’s saris. First, we walked through the fruit and vegetable market; stopping to sample a custard apple fruit, which looks almost like an artichoke but is sweet and delicious. From there, it was on to the spice market, where the colors were incredible and the smells just as powerful. Shops were selling everything from the traditional colorful spices of turmeric and chili powder, to blocks of dry molasses (covered in enormous wasps), mounds of garlic, nuts, bags red chilies, piles of black tea, and stacks of cooking oil tins.

Fruit & Vegetable market

Spices & Chilies

Blocks of molasses

Nuts, nuts, & more nuts!

The market made us quite hungry, so we headed up the hill near Lake Fateh Sagar to catch a glimpse of the lake, enjoy a walk through a Japanese Garden, and eat a traditional Rajasthani lunch.

Pete at the look out spot over Lake Fateh Sagar

From lunch, we made our way down the hill, to a rather touristy spot by the lake (Indian tourists). A main attraction was the ornately decorated camels entrepreneurial locals had lined up to take people on rides. Since we had our ride, the rickshaw, Pete just requested a picture of me sitting atop one of these beasts. After a short negotiation (as with all things here), I hoped up onto the saddle of a seated camel. Pete snapped a shot of me with the camel sitting down, and then its own yelled at it to stand up, and I thankfully held on pretty tight as it lurched to its feet – they are rather awkward in standing up!

Camel & me (sitting)

Camel & me (standing)

Camel close up

From Lake Fateh Sagar, we stayed in the northern part of the city and visited the Saheliyon-ki-Bari, or the Garden of the Maids of Honor. Originally, the garden was made for the women attendants who came as part of the princess’ dowry. Doulat tried, but didn’t succeed, in convincing Pete he had to wear a sari to get into the garden. It would have been a funny sight.

Too bad he wasn't wearing a sari!

After seeing all the sights, we were finally ready to do some shopping. Rajasthan is known for its textiles – embroidered, appliqué, block-printed, tie-dyed – you name it, they have it. We did some damage in the shop he took us to.

The interior of the rickshaw was even colorful

With such a hazy day, we called off the hike to the sunset spot and decided we were all quite tired. We headed back to the hotel and collapsed.

Pete & Doulat

From the few days we’ve been here, Doulat is a great representation of the generous, low-key, and friendly Udaipur locals. This “City of Lakes” is know as an aesthetically beautiful place, but as we’re finding out the people make it even better.