Monday, November 21, 2011

Kuta:1 Pete&Carrie: 0



Editors note: Travel is awesome. But, on an extended trip there will always be a day or two here and there where you would gladly take back your seat in a cubicle in exchange for a normally functioning stomach. We've had a couple of those this week.

It’s been a bit of a rough start to the Bali leg of the trip.  We had been warned not to stay in Kuta by pretty much everyone we spoke to, but unfortunately it seems to be the only appropriate spot for beginners to take up surfing on the island. Given that, our plan was to spend a couple nights in Kuta, get the basics of surfing down, and hopefully by then have figured out a quieter (and cleaner) beach that we could base ourselves at and continue to try to pick up surfing.

Well, 6 nights later, we are still here.

The first day went as planned – arrived, checked into the nice, relatively quiet hotel we had booked online, found a surf shop and booked a lesson for the next day. After the red-eye from India, there wasn’t much more on our list to get done other than sleep.

Our surf lesson the next morning was good – great instructor, both standing up on waves, having fun. But man, it was tiring. I found myself out of breath, tired, light headed, but enjoying it.  We dropped the boards off after the lesson, had a quick bite to eat, and then carried our bags halfway across town to the cheaper hotel we found. I thought the walk was going to kill me. Hot. Humid. And I was really lagging.

Got to the hotel. Checked in. Spent the afternoon in bed.

Around 4pm, after more trips to the bathroom than I can count, and realizing that I was running a really high fever, I went to the medical clinic down the street (I will leave out the frustrating part about the clinics approach to pricing – suffice to say that I bought the medications the clinic tried to sell me at a pharmacy down the street for a 1/100th the price).

101 fever, bacterial infection in the stomach, and a parasite in there to boot. Sweet.

Thankfully the meds kicked in pretty quickly, so only had to spend most of the next day (day 3) in bed before starting to feel human again. Carrie was a saint, and brought in meals (plain rice and a banana) from the restaurant down the street for me. I managed to muster the energy to walk to the beach to watch Carrie take another surf lesson just before sunset.

We both surfed again on Day 4. Rented a scooter in the afternoon and battled Kuta traffic for a couple hours trying to get the lay of the land.

Got home that night, and Carrie was starting to come down with a fever. The next day (Day 5), she was in bed all day. My turn to fetch the meals from the restaurant down the street.

We wake up on Day 6, Carrie’s fever seems to be subsided, I’m feeling almost 100%, we both decide to go out for a morning surf. All’s going well until Carrie tries to catch a wave, does a nose dive, and comes out of the water grimacing. Big cut on her thigh, presumably from the fin of the board.

3 stitches, iodine, antibiotics, and doctors orders not to swim for the next week later we are really, really ready to be done with Kuta.

Heading up to the mountains tomorrow, hoping that chapter one of our Bali stay is behind us! 

Reminiscing about India

India.

The mysticism. The sadhus. The fire. The colors. The noise.

The cows. The elephants. The camels. The autorickshaws.

The crowds. The traffic. The chaos.

The smiles and furtive looks. The warm hospitality.

The food, the chai, always offered.

The history. The forts. The temples.

The slums. The beggars. The poverty.

The new metro. The new airport terminal. The new high-tech office parks.

The tech entrepreneurs. The hoteliers. The manufacturers. The Indian tourists.

The mountains. The rivers. The desert. The coast. The cities.

India. You never cease to amaze.

Friday, November 18, 2011

Kerala Paradise


We had a fantastic week in Kerala! From Mumbai, we headed south (this time by plane) to Kovalam in the southern state of Kerala. Our home-stay with our hosts, Sally & Ani, was definitely the highlight. Both 77 years old (but act not a day past 30), they split their time between Kovalam and the SF Bay Area. They have a gorgeous house set right on the beach with a 5-star hotel sprouting up all around them. We left our windows open all week to hear the waves crashing on the beach, which proved to be rather loud at points (rough life, we know). The setting alone was a perfect get-away, but our hosts made it that much better. As we sipped on our sundowners each evening, we got to know more and more about their children, their 35-year marriage, and all sorts of interesting stories from their lives (we heard about shark attacks and losing passports in Spain to name a few).
Pete, Sally, & Ani
Each morning we'd wake up to a coconut with a straw in it (yum!)
View from the balcony (where we'd have our sundowners)
Kovalam Sunset

While we were in Kovalam, we took two trips to see more of beautiful state of Kerala. Our first trip was to the southern tip of India. Along the way, we stopped at a palace and a temple (cameras were not allowed at the temple, so no pictures). The palace was gorgeous and looked like it could have been in Thailand. The architecture of southern India is far different from that of the north.
Entrances, ceilings, and doors were intricately carved out of wood
Column carving

We continued south until we arrived at the southern most tip of India to a town called Kanyakumari. Just off the coast there are two islands, one with a temple and one with a very large statue. We took the ferry out to tour around the two islands.
Two islands off shore
Close up of the foot of the statue
Elephant & me

Me & Pete at the tip of India

Once we were back on land, we headed for the Gandhi Memorial and then to Sunset Point.
Colorful Gandhi Memorial
Boats at Sunset Point

Our second excursion was north of Kovalam to head inland on the backwaters. We hired a houseboat for the day with a great crew. After a couple hours on the boat and a feast of a lunch, we arrived at a little village where we changed to a canoe and punted into the smaller rivers to explore the little communities along the waterways. Our canoe driver, Vijeesh, was quite the character and we laughed and laughed at his jokes. He let us punt for a little bit, but Pete was much better than I was! After the canoe, we hopped back on our houseboat for some tea as we made our way back to the dock.

Our Houseboat
Our feast of a lunch
Locals going about their daily business
Indian tourists who loved that we took a picture of them!
Canoe trip through the smaller canals
Canoes on the backwaters
Pete testing out his punting skills
Our canoe driver, Vijeesh
Pete captaining the houseboat on the way back
Us on the houseboat

Saturday, November 12, 2011

A Day in Mumbai

A short stop in Mumbai allowed us to catch up with Kuntal, an old coworker of Pete's, meet Kuntal's family. They were great hosts, showing us around the neighborhood, feeding us very well, and making some of the best chai!
Our amazing hosts (Kuntal's mother, Kuntal, Dipti, me, & Pete)

From Kuntal's house, we took the commuter train (not during rush hour, thank goodness!) to downtown for some sightseeing ...
Commuter train (note all the people in the doorways for a breeze)
The Taj Hotel - George W. Bush stayed here that night (we wondered why there was so much security!)

Gateway to India
Marine Drive (Mumbai's version of the Embarcadero!)
Chowpatty Beach with the skyline in the background

Not only did we see some sights, but we also sampled some yummy local cuisine. Pete's coworker, Mahima, gave us some great  suggestions ...

Berry Pulao at Britannia
Custard Apple ice cream at Bachelorr's

Our least favorite part of traveling is the amount of bottles of water we buy each day. Unfortunately, we found out where all of our plastic bottles end up ...
Sad :(

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Goodbye Udaipur


Headed off on an overnight train to Mumbai, where we’ll be spending two nights with Kuntal and his family (an ex-LRN coworker from the Mumbai office). We managed to get 2AC tickets for the 17hr trip, so hopefully should be in relative comfort - as long as my Delhi Belly doesn’t act up!

We will leave you with a few last photos of Udaipur …

View of the palace at night, from across the lake

A poor attempt at a panorama of the old city.  Anyone have a good panorama building tool for a mac? Picasa doesn't seem to do it very well ...


View of the palace at night, from the rooftop restaurant at our hotel

Friday, November 4, 2011

Carrie's goat

Given the late hour and the chaos of getting off the train in Haridwar, we didn't have the wherewithal to snap a picture.

In appreciation of our loyal readers, we've done our best to recreate the scene here in Udaipur. The goat does look strikingly similar to Carrie's real goat ...

Carrie & a stand-in for her real goat

Enjoying Udaipur

We've had a fun week in Udaipur, India ...

Our first day here, I found a shopkeeper who does henna.
henna

On Sunday, we visited the City Palace. Note to self: don't visit a tourist attraction on the last day of a holiday (Diwali) week - the crowds are crazy!

City Palace
City Palace

After the crowded, hot tour of City Palace, we stopped in for a drink at a local bar.
Wait, this is not Jackson Hole! (Note the barstools are saddles like the Cowboy Bar in Jackson)

On Monday, we went on a tour of Udaipur with our favorite driver, Doulat (see other post).
Pete & Doulat

We enjoyed lunch at a local rooftop restaurant.
Looks like San Francisco, right?

On Tuesday evening, we went to a cooking class given by Shashi (see other post).
Pete, Shashi, & me

After cooking class, we heard prayers and songs coming from the Jagdish Temple. We welcomed the walk to the temple to help walk off our feast!
Jagdish Temple at night

Wednesday evening we went to see traditional Rajasthani music and dance at the Bagore-ki-Haveli (a gorgeous mansion with traditional architecture).
Women dancing with fire pots on their heads
Puppeteer
Gorgeous costumes
Yes, she balanced all the clay pots on her head while dancing

On Thursday, we went to see the new Indian blockbuster: Ra.One. As Pete said, it's Street Figher meets The Matrix meets Terminator 2 ... meets Bollywood! And yes, it was in 3D.
Me & Pete with our 3D glasses

Today we toured the Haveli Museum at the Bagore-ki-Haveli.
Haveli Museum

Earlier this week we had found a local artist who did miniature paintings, a style very common here in Rajasthan. We really liked his work, and today went back and bought some art.
Me & artist

And the activity we've done the most is relaxing and enjoying the view of Lake Pichola from the rooftop of our hotel. (Not only do we enjoy the view while eating and relaxing, we have been doing yoga each morning on the rooftop at 7am - very peaceful!)
View of Lake Pichola from our rooftop